There have been various histories in the Île-de-France that have involved vines versus apples. At the end of the 1970’s, the Clos des Morillons in Paris’ 15th arrondissement was the object of a confrontation between apples and vines. The mayor conducted a poll that determined most residents wanted the local slaughter houses, which had been abandoned for years, to be replaced by a park.
A group of shop keepers put forth the idea of planting vines as a homage to the vineyards of the Vaugirard plateau that had been generously planted to vines until the previous century. A debate ensued between a Norman senator and a deputy, both of them residents of the 15th. The former wanted to plant apple trees and the latter, vines. A notorious ‘cider over wine’ battle followed, with the deputy finally winning.
The Domaine Delorozoy in the region of Le Petit Morin in the Seine et Marne in the village of Montdauphin is another such story. The youngest generation of the family (represented by Delphine and Sebastien Delorozoy), who have cultivated 200 hectares of cereal grains and pasture land for 7 generations, wanted to diversify, and so a number of options were considered, including planting apple trees for cider.
A poll within the family was taken, weighing the various options, and planting a vineyard won out. The fact that the address of the family’s farm is 11, Rue des Vignes undoubtedly also worked in favour of vines. Planting a vineyard seems like an obvious choice if you live on ‘the street of vines’, especially when there was no longer any evidence of them. This address has been working on their unconscious like the twirling tendrils of vines that attach themselves to any support, beckoning them to validate the name of their street by reintroducing vines.
The domain, planted in 2021, extends over 3.5 hectares, and is planted to Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Verdelho*. The choices of the grape varieties “have been carefully selected for their aromas and their suitability to our climate and soil.” The vineyard is worked organically, and is close to a forest (we saw a deer bounding along the path while there) “with regular grassing to ensure that the vines develop generously”.
1 Verdelho is a white wine grape grown throughout Portugal, though most associated with the island of Madeira, and also gives its name to one of the four main types of Madeira wine. At the turn of the 20th century it was the most widely planted white grape in Madeira. (from Wikipedia)
Although they suffered hail damage from the storm that swept through the Paris region on 3 May, following the disastrous vintage of 2024, they are optimistic about 2025. Following the hail, they estimate there are 40% fewer bunches and 10% of the remaining bunches were also affected (it remains to be seen whether they will hold), 50% of the apexes were affected, 100% of the shoots were affected (hammered) and 100% of the leaves split.
The vine's growth was slowed by this episode. Since then, the internodes have started up again, more leaves have come out, and they remain hopeful that they'll have a harvest that will still be good in terms of quality, but that will not be as good in terms of quantity. We spoke about climate change and whether they have observed any radical changes over the years. “Not so much in terms of warming, but there has been a noticeable increase in more violent weather patterns”.
The grapes are harvested by hand with the help of local workers before being transported to the winery, 500 metres from the plots. Vinification at this point is in steel vats, but their intention is to age in oak as soon as they can afford to purchase (used) barrels.
After our visit of the domain, accompanied by their very friendly dog Lizi, we tasted the Pinot Gris, the Chardonnay, and the Pinot Noir in their not quite entirely equipped tasting room. The Pinot Noir and the Chardonnay are subtly oaked with wood chips, which I gently chided them for, stating I would like to know what their wines are like without the confectionary notes of oak.
The wines showed great promise, and though I found the oakiness of the Pinot Noir and the Chardonnay pleasing, I also found it a distraction and really didn’t think they need it. Allowing wines to speak their own truth always wins my vote, but I do also understand the appeal of oak, especially when trying to win over a broad spectrum of wine drinkers.
These are early days, but it’s clear Delphine and Sebastien are on the right track and dedicated to the work of producing quality wines. We look forward to following the evolution of their wines and encourage you to seek them out if you’re able to make the journey to Montdauphin.
You can find out more on their website: https://www.domaine-delorozoy.fr/
Or visit them at their domain (contact)
Domaine Delorozoy
11, rue des vignes
77320 MONTDAUPHIN
You might also ask your local wine merchant if they’ve heard of them, and so help them to expand their distribution network. Santé!
UPCOMING WINE EVENTS AROUND PARIS
Les Coteaux du Montguichet invite you to join them on Saturday 31 May from 11am to 7pm for another Rendez-Vous du Samedi - a free tasting and sale of the estate's wines. Charcuterie and cheese boards will be served on the terrace, in the sunshine and facing the vines. “What could be more delightful than being able to taste before you buy, and discover or rediscover their organic Ile de France wines, made in Chelles!”
Le Clos Ferout is hosting a ‘Wine Day’, their first Open House
On the programme:
🍇 Local organic wine tasting and tour of their Île-de-France vineyard.
🌾 Market of producers and craftsmen from the Vexin Français and the region with @brin_d_herbe_95 @pimpmycaisse @ooochiemama @popmatefr and many others + @lou.syrah who will come to sign her book
🎶 Spring Guinguette with live music, guests @_angel.blackwood_ @zeitnot4tet @thomas.landi
🍽️ Drinks (natural wines, beers and non-alcoholic beverages) and food by @andreahabre
🏕️ Camping available on site
In the heart of the vineyards, come and spend an unforgettable time meeting enthusiasts, tasting authentic products and live music to accompany it all!
📍 Location: Clos Férout, le Heaulme (95)
🗓️ Saturday 24 May
🕛 Times: 10am-11pm
UrbAgri, Domaine viticole de Paris Gravelle is hosting the 1st Vine Flower Festival at the Paris Gravelle wine estate on Saturday 14 and Sunday 15 June 2025.
The flower of the vine can be seen for only a few days between the end of May and mid-June, depending on the year. It will give birth to bunches of grapes.
All lovers of vines and wine, and even beer lovers, are invited to join us at the 1st Fête de la Fleur de Vigne, an open-air country event in late spring, on Saturday 14 and Sunday 15 June 2025.
Registration is open at www.domainedeparisgravelle.fr
The programme:
Saturday 14 June 2025
9am: Introduction to viticulture workshop at the Paris Gravelle wine estate
11am: guided tour of the estate
12.30pm: Domaine picnic
3pm: Children's winegrowing pentathlon
Sunday 15 June 2025
10.30 am: Pentathlon vigneron adults
12.30pm: Plancha de la mer
To explore the vineyards of Paris and find again that spring in your step that the promise of renewed life brings, we invite you to join us on a wine walk, cultural tour, or treasure hunt. Tis the season to be out and about in the burgeoning green and the blossoming, flowering, budding perfume of nature’s infinite colour palette. Santé!
Thank you for letting me into your world and for reading the Paris Wine Walks Substack. Your support is invaluable as are your comments, suggestions, critiques, dreams, thoughts and remembrances. A little encouragement goes a long way, so please consider a paid subscription, which need cost no more than (a cheap) glass of wine per week. Or, book a wine walk!
My book, ‘The Hidden Vineyards of Paris’ (reviewed in Jancis Robinson’s wine blog, the Wine Economist, National Geographic Traveler UK, UK Telegraph) is available for purchase via our website and at anglophone bookshops and wine shops in Paris. You can also find it at the Musée de Montmartre and the Librairie Gourmande.
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