Vines in Normandy
Regardless of where I find myself, there always seem to be vines
Normandy is perhaps the region of France that is the least likely to be associated with vineyards. Mostly because the vineyards that were once here (and yes, like most other regions of France, there were once vineyards in Normandy too) disappeared entirely. Apart from Camembert, arguably one of the greatest cheeses on Earth, we think of cider, calvados, and a diverse range of fruit based alcohols when we think of Normandy and alcohol. And until 2023, there were only four other vineyards in Normandy, one in Saint Pierre sur Dives, one in Barneville-Carteret, one in Saint-Jean-de-la-Haize, and the other in Giverny. Despite the claims of ‘Domain Arpents du Soleil’ in Saint Pierre as being the only one, there is definitely another in Giverny, the only other vineyard in Normandy of which I was aware.
But now there are five, and quite by happenstance, I was able to visit the one in Marolles next to Courton le Meurdrac in the Pays d’Auge this morning while returning a mowing machine I spent the day riding yesterday while cutting grass around apple trees.
The Domaine des Deserts was planted in 2023, and so they’ve not yet had their first vintage, but will be producing wine for the first time this year. The domain is currently 4.5 hectares, with plans for an additional 3 hectares, so not a small project. Planted to Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chenin, and Chardonnay, the additional 3 hectares will be planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
The vines are all south facing and planted in clay, limestone soil that was until very recently, entirely wooded. So much so, that the Normandy manor house that is now the residence of Sebastien Fricker and Claire de Meyer was entirely hidden from sight.
“It'll never grow!” they were told. People thought they were completely mad to start such an ambitious project at a time when climate change is causing unpredictable outcomes. Not to mention the downturn in world wine consumption and the assertion that “it rains in Normandy all the time”, which has caused more than one to say, “the vines will never grow". But this has not stopped them, and their enthusiasm and conviction is clear, as the financial investment (not to mention the physical, psychological, and spiritual investment) is not insignificant.
Sébastien Fricker grew up in the wine business. His family owns the Domaine des Ellettes in Saumur, where he worked as cellar master and export manager. Now, with his partner Claire De Meyer, he heads up the Domaine des Deserts in Marolles, near Lisieux. The winery has yet to prove itself, but their optimism and engagement are profound, and based on extensive research and analysis.
“Before Phylloxera, there were already over 12,000 hectares of vines in Normandy, so we haven't invented anything,” argues Sébastien Fricker. It's a carefully considered approach. Sébastien Fricker has chosen a soil he knows well, clay-limestone, for grape varieties he knows how to vinify: Chenin and Chardonnay for the whites, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet franc for the reds. The aim is to market 40,000 bottles by 2026.
In the meanwhile, they are selling the wines of the family’s estate in Saumur along with a range of local specialties. They are also developing cultural activities to draw clients, with musical evenings and themed dinners with guest chefs, and are building a cultural centre for musical events, concerts, weddings, and banquets.
Santé!
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