Grapes of perception and heaven and hell

Climate change and the uncertain future of wine

Oct 10, 2024

Having just returned from a very gratifying tour of Burgundy and Beaujolais, where we swept through the painfully picturesque surface of the vines, enjoying the best of winemaker hospitality, fabulous meals, and luxurious accommodations (heaven), we were pretty much immune to the stresses and losses that vineyards have endured this year. But stresses and losses there are, with yields down between 30 and 90% (hell).

Nevertheless, that didn’t diminish our experience as carefree travellers, who skimming the surface of this vast wine lake, barely got our toes wet. We were not engaged in the stresses, losses, anxieties, worries and miseries our hosts are suffering, which for the most part seem to be taken stoically and philosophically. And it was all so wondrously beautiful, the landscapes, the stones, the villages, and the medieval cellars, which are all there to remind us there will always be a tomorrow.

The indomptable spirit and perseverance of winemakers, who must work with whatever slings and arrows outrageous fortune may provide them, is something to be admired. Nowhere were spirits darkened by nature’s cruelty, as each and every one looks on wistfully to the future and the hope that next year will be more clement.

Without going into detail, we enjoyed some fabulous tastings and maintained a bemused and beatific mood, fuelled by curiosity and surprise throughout. There is nothing more exhilarating than the discovery of new wines tasted in the presence of the winemaker and we were regaled with some unforgettable vintages and unexpected treats. Even though our experiences were in-depth and comprehensive, there’s never really enough time to delve as deep as one might wish to go. But even a brief glimpse of the artistry and creativity of inspired winemakers is a joy.

Before I get into the overview promised in last week’s post, I invite you to travel vicariously with us through a random selection of images that will give you an idea of the stunning beauty and pleasures this tour provided (carrying on from the images included in last week’s post).

Overview of the 2024 Grape Harvest in Burgundy and Beaujolais

The 2024 grape harvest in Burgundy and Beaujolais has been notably challenging, marked by significant losses and a sense of disappointment among winemakers.

Weather Conditions

This growing season was plagued by unpredictable weather patterns, including early frost in spring that severely impacted bud development. Summer brought excessive heat and sporadic heavy rains, leading to issues like mildew and rot, which further reduced yields. As a result, many vineyards faced a substantial decrease in grape quality and quantity.

Burgundy

In Burgundy, the mood among winemakers was subdued, but philosophical, and nowhere did we find despair or negativity. Only relentless good humour and the will to keep at it.

The frost damage in early spring resulted in dramatic losses, with some estates reporting up to 50% fewer grapes than average. While the remaining grapes showed good sugar levels, the overall volume will be insufficient to meet market demand. There is of course concern regarding the immediate impact on their businesses but also about the long-term implications for the region's reputation and pricing.

Beaujolais

Similarly, Beaujolais has experienced its own struggles this year. The challenges of unpredictable weather and disease pressure led to a significant drop in yields, particularly for the Gamay grape. There is undoubtedly frustration, as this vintage was anticipated to be promising, but the reality is that many were left with little to harvest. The prevailing sentiment is nevertheless one of optimism (hope springs eternal in the human heart), especially for smaller producers.

Conclusion

The 2024 grape harvest in Burgundy and Beaujolais is a stark reminder of the vulnerabilities faced by winemakers. ‘Nature shapes our ends, rough hew them as we will’, is an apt summary of this year’s harvest as winemakers throughout France contend with the greater forces at work in their endeavours.

With substantial losses and a prevailing sense of uncertainty, the outlook for this vintage is quite grim. As the season wraps up, the focus will shift to recovery strategies and hope for more favourable conditions in the years to come. But if there is anyone able to endure misfortune with a smile, it’s winemakers, and we applaud their persistence and devotion (as well as their wines!) Santé

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